Victorian hair inspired by American horror

Health and safety

Be carefully when using the curlers to create the Victorian inspired hair be careful not to burn yourself or the clients scalp due to the appliance being hot.

Equipment

• hair pins
• curlers
• paddle brush
• dolls head
• sectioning clips
• pin tail comb

In order to create set style curls, firstly create a side parting using the pin tail comb.

The curl the two sections of hair at the front of the head to the temples this is usually about three curls on the side with the centre parting and two curls on the other side.

when curling the sections firstly create sharp sections using the pin tail comb situate the curlers at the end of the hair pull the section of hair up to create volume and roll the curlers towards the scalp and towards you, making sure the curlers are straight otherwise this will cause a dip. Once enough heat is applied to the hair remove the curlers gently and apply two hair pins to keep the curls in place.

Once the front section is curled to about the temples, then curl the back section of hair using the same technique but curling the hair under using the hair curlers. The first curl should be situated on the crown and curled under. Due to creating curls on the crown the next section of hair will be split into two sections and creating two curls this is known as brick laying. Once you have created two curls due to the shape of the crown create one curl underneath carry this technique out until you have reached the neck.

Finally the in order to create curls using the side sections of hair which will spiral round the face, section the hair and carry out the same curling technique this time pointing the curlers towards the face, once heat has been applied to the hair slowly remove the curlers an secure in place using hair pins. Carry out this technique until the whole head I covered in set curls.

Dark eyes and lips

Equipment

• primer
• foundation
• translucent powder
• illamaqua sculpting powder
• illamaqua blusher pallet
• illamaqua neutral pallet
• mascara
• gel eyeliner
• dark lipstick

Firstly I applied a primer to the skin to give the makeup a better finish.

Then I applied a foundation to the neck face and ears using my foundation brush.

once the foundation looked even I then used a translucent powder by Illamasqua to set the makeup base.

Next I used my sculpting powder by Illamasqua to contour the face.

Then I applied a light pink from my Illamsaqua blush pallet to my cheekbones to add more depth.

Then I applied a brown from my neutral Illamasqua pallet to the eyelids.

Using my black from my neutral pallet by Illmasqua and my rounded blending brush I applied colour to the socket areas of the eyes to create the smokey eyes effect.

I then used the cream from my reflection pallet and white from my Illmasqua neutral pallet to highlight underneath the brows.

In order to make the eyebrows appear more sharp I brushed a small amount of brown from my neutral pallet through the brows.

Using my gel eyeliner I outlined the eyelids by creating an eyeliner flick.

Finally I applied a mascara to the eyes.

In order to complete my look I applied a deep red colour to the lips.

Creating Scarring

Equipment

• petrolease
• moulds
• gelatine/latex
• prosade glue 
• baby powder
• cotton buds 
• supracolour pallet
• makeup brushes
• wound filler 
• blood
• puss optional
• witch hazel
• proclean oil
• barrier cream
• Vaseline 
• kryolan foundation pallet
• paintbrush

Health and safety 
makeup sure the client is not allergic o any of the products prosthetic products in particular. If the client is allergic to the products or if the area of skin becomes red and itchy  remove immediately under cold running water.

Technique
Scars can be made from moulds by pouring gelatine or latex into the mould and being left to dry, once the mould is dry in order for it to come out easily adding a layer of prosade and also baby powder which will avoid the prosthetic from going tacky and sticking to other prosthetic pieces.
Firstly before applying the prosthetic to the skin apply a barrier cream to the area especially if the client has sensitive skin.
Next apply a layer of prosade glue to the area and to the back of the prosthetic and wait until the glue goes clear. Prosade is a moveable glue used to stick on all prosthetic pieces.
Once the glue has gone clear apply the prosthetic to the area applying plenty of pressure. If the glue is not clear the prosthetic pieces will slide and not stick to the skin.
when the prosthetic is firmly stuck down using witch hazel and a baby bud get rid of any rough edges blending the prosthetic into the skin.
when blending the prosthetic into the skin powder the prosthetic and use you mirror to judge how the prosthetic is looking along the way.
Next apply foundation to the prosthetic to make it blend into the skin and look more realistic.
then use wound filler to apply to the centre of the scar, wound filler can be applied either by using a spatula or a thin makeup brush.
Next apply colour such as reds yellows and blacks from your supracolour to the prosthetic using a fine line brush to make it seem more realistic.
Finally apply blood to the area or puss and also Vaseline which can e used to give a blister effect. In order to create a splattered blood effect use a stiff paintbrush.
 

Creating black eyes and scratches

Black Eye

Equipment 

• makeup brushes
• supracolour pallet
• foundation
• vaseline

Health and safety
make sure the client is not allergic to nay of the products if the clients skin becomes red or itchy in the area where the product has been applied remove immediately and run under cold running water.

Technique
It is a good idea to use an image of bruising as a guideline to analyse the colour when creating a black eye/bruise. Firstly apply foundation around the  area or the eye and onto the face and blend out using a buffer brush. Next apply several colours such as reds blacks purples blues and yellows to the area and blend out using a blending brush.
If you are creating a bruise which is red and slightly swollen apply a small amount of Vaseline to the area to make the bruising appear more sore.

Scratch

Equipment 

• fine line brush 
• supracolour pallet
• blending brush

Technique 
Firstly I created a fine line with a fine makeup brush and a light red from my  supracolour pallet.
Next I used my blending brush to blend the line out into the skin.
The I applied a darker layer of red over top of the faded line and blended the line out with the blending brush.
finally  I started to create broken lines with my fine line brush and dark red mixed with a small amount of black.

In order to make the scratch appear more realistic I had to really blend the product into the skin and keep layering up the supracolour.
   

Creating Estella Image

Miss Havisham and Estella face charts

Practice look of Miss Havisham make-up and hair

Practice Miss Havisham Makeup